Bogdan, Try washing the print in an acid bath; non indicator stop bath would
be fine. You may have a precipitate that has formed and dried into the
surface. Then rewash your print and you may even use a weak carbonate bath
to balance out the acid.
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.nethttp://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype ejprinter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-
> bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Bogdan Karasek
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 8:10 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Cleaning a Drum Dryer
>
> Hi,
>
> When I was doing the sepia toning, it was written on the instructions
> that a hardener should be used after toning because the bleaching
> process renders the paper soft. Do they mean that the bleach "eats"
> away the protective layer of gelatin coating in order to get at the
> emulsion?????
>
> I did not use a hardener and noticed that on several of my prints, there
> were motes of dust imbedded in the paper. I took one print and tried
> to rub off the dust but to no avail. That's when I realized that it was
> imbedded in the paper, but which layer, emulsion layer or was there
> still some gelatin left, despite the bleaching?
>
> Cheers,
> Bogdan
>
> Richard Knoppow wrote:
>
> snip
>
>
> > The Baryta layer _is_ a coating of gelatin. It is the sizing for the
> > paper. Most papers have more than one layer but the number of layers
> > also has to do with what sort of texture the paper is to have. Note that
> > there is a difference between texture and surface: texture is gotten by
> > callendering the paper before the emulsion is coated and texture is
> > usually from something in the overcoating (like talc).
> > Generally fiber paper has three basic coatings: the baryta layer, the
> > emulsion coated over this, and a protective layer of gelatin coated over
> > the emulsion. This protective layer is what is used to obtain the very
> > smooth surface when ferrotyping.
> > Dave Valvo, who is on this list, is a former Kodak paper expert and
> > can unboubtedly provide more complete information.
> >
> > ---
> > Richard Knoppow
> > Los Angeles, CA, USA
> > dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
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> >
>
> --
> ________________________________________________________________
> Bogdan Karasek
> Montréal, Québec bogdan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Canada www.bogdanphoto.com
>
> "I photograph my reality"
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
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