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[pure-silver] Re: Basic Metering Question ( and appeal to Jim Brick )
- From: "richard l. gifford" <rlgif@xxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 22:04:46 -0500
These are from Landscapes, not The Negative you said
you were using. Notice that none of these references
to use of a gray card are leading to use of the zones.
This is important. If you read him again like I
suggested and find where he is talking about the zone
system you said you were trying to use, he won't be
saying anything about using a gray card to determine
zones. You can use a gray card, but don't confuse that
with using the zone system.
IMHO, If you're using the gray card to arbitrarily
center a middle gray without concern for the ends or
anything that might actually be in the scene, you might
as well be shooting with your Nikon and avoiding the
hassle of cut film. I vote for using the Nikon as a
spot meter like you say, so you can meter shadows and
highlights and main subjects. You will really know
what you are getting with no guesswork, regardless of
gloom or snow. You can also gently begin to use the
zone system, and your negatives will amaze you all over
again.
Keep an eye on ebay. Remember that averaging and
weighting are not applicable to the zone system in any
way, only to the various guessing systems, so an analog
meter does everything you need.
BTW my reply mentioned placing the subject first, which
isn't how I work with landscapes. It certainly applies
to portraits and probably portraits of lilies too. I'm
not a people photographer, only envious of those who
are. I start by placing the shadows, then assess the
damages.
Best regards... Dick
p.s.. Being a hide-bound traditionalist, I feel
obligated to add an =20 here.
Justin F. Knotzke wrote:
> <quote who=richard l. gifford date=[4/6/2005 05:31]/>
>
>>You need to read Ansel again. Are you sure he said
>>meter a gray card or take an incident reading?
>
>
> Regarding Gray Cards:
>
> "If we place the gray card within a scene and take a meter reading from
> it,
> we are assured that the meter is measuring a middle reflectance value, and we
> can avoid the pitfalls of a single averaged reading of the entire subject."
>
> ...
>
> "Thus, placing the gray card in front of the three checkerboard surfaces
> described above would yield the same exposure for each. This exposure reading
> would reproduce the gray card squares of the checkerboard and the
> checkerboard
> will be rendered satisfactorily as blacks and whites."
>
> "This approach can often be valuable one for determining exposure in the
> field. It amounts to providing a known middle-gray luminance where none may
> exist in the subject."
>
> Now to be fair, he also later states:
>
> "I strongly favor the use of a 1o spot meter since it provides accurate
> readings of even quite small subject areas. If you use a general purpose
> meter
> that reads roughly 30o area, you must be especially careful that the surface
> you
> read is adequately large, and you must hold the meter quite close to it..." *
>
> Adams, Ansel, The Landscape, 2002, Little, Brown and company
>
> I own one lens. It's a 150mm lens (on a 4x5 camera). In most cases, I can
> walk to whatever I am shooting using a 150mm lens. So my thinking is I will
> be
> able to walk over to whatever I am shooting and meter close to it.
>
> Yes I spot meter is great to have but I've spent enough cash already
> thanks.
> But your email has me thinking. I might drag my Nikon F5 with me and use the
> spot meter in there. Then when my next ship comes in, I'll look into getting
> a
> spot meter.
>
> Thanks for the reply,
>
> J
>
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Other related posts:[pure-silver] Re: Basic Metering Question ( and appeal to Jim Brick ) [pure-silver] Re: Basic Metering Question ( and appeal to Jim Brick ) [pure-silver] Re: Basic Metering Question ( and appeal to Jim Brick ) [pure-silver] Re: Basic Metering Question ( and appeal to Jim Brick ) [pure-silver] Re: Basic Metering Question ( and appeal to Jim Brick )
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