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[Dave Harnish <drs@xxxxxxxxxx>]

The DRSNews
December 2004 
Merry Christmas!
Hi Homeclinic'ers!

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In this issue:
 
1) Electronic Control Range Error 'F' Codes
2) Your Christmas Present! You MAY open before 12-25!)

1) Last month we talked about calibrating temperatures in 
'analog' ovens, so I thought it only fair to mention some of the 
issues with electronically controlled, 'digital' ones this month. 

One of the built-in features of these microprocessor controllers 
is error detection. Most errors are reported and displayed in 
the display as 'F' codes, and these codes are really helpful in 
figuring out where to start in diagnosing your oven's problem. 

Early 'EOC' ('electronic oven control') ranges used only 9 or 
10 of these codes, and were fairly simple compared to those 
being manufactured today. But the basic 'F' codes have 
remained pretty well standard, and even if you don't know what 
the 'complete' code might mean, you can use these to at least 
get to the general area of the problem.

These codes are just the letter 'F' followed by a number, that 
appears in your oven's display when there's trouble. Often 
accompanied by beeping, these usually require attention before 
the oven can be used. 

Many newer codes are 4 digits, with the second pair of 
characters narrowing the problem down more specifically. 
There are so many of these now depending on range brand, 
there's not space to cover them all in this article, but here are 
the most common two digit codes:

*F0 - Failed transistor in control (replace control)

*F1 - Again, internal failure on earlier models
                   
(Note - many of the earlier Maytag products (Magic Chef, 
JennAire, a few others) threw an *intermittent* 'F1' code, 
accompanied by annoying, persistent beeping. For whatever 
reason, this often happened through the night, and the first few I 
saw drove me to distraction because there were no service bulletins 
from the manufacturer on this until it had been happening for a 
while (Fun!). Anyway, in these cases, the keypad will have failed. 

One key will usually 'leak' just enough current to trick and 'confuse' 
the processor into this error code. This problem has become pretty 
famous by now, as it was widespread - and I still see it from time 
to time. (Unplug the membrane keypad's connector to diagnose 
this on most models).

*F2 - Oven temp went too high - exceeded 590F without door locked, 
or 990F with it locked (On newer models, indicates a shorted keypad - 
we call it a 'stuck key' code. As above, unplugging the keypad 
connector will help with diagnosis)

Other F2 causes can be: 
*high resistance connection in sensor circuit - This is one I see a lot, 
and like an F3, can be caused by solder cracks on the board. I've 
soldered literally hundreds of these since their introduction, and 
always have to smile at the manufacturers' literature that tells us 
these boards aren't serviceable.
*Sensor exposed to a temperature of 40F or lower (I haven't seen 
this one yet, but I'm told it happens on downdraft units with short 
vent runs and a vent damper that doesn't seal well.)
* Interference from cordless phones (Have seen this one, especially 
with earlier phones - usually when the phone was very close to the 
range), ham radios, etc. It seems the board's wiring harness acts as 
an antenna in these cases. The harness should be run as close to the 
chassis (ground) as possible to prevent this.
* Moisture or grease accumulation causing current leakage across 
sensor pins on board (I have yet to see this one, but I'm sure it 
happens)

*F3 - This used to be the most common code, and indicates an open 
or ground in the sensor circuit. Either the sensor itself is open, or a 
harness connection, thermal fuse (some use one in the harness), or 
(most commonly) solder cracks on the board at the pins that the 
sensor plugs into. Early sensors were a common source of this problem, 
but their reliability seems to have come a long way. I don't see nearly 
the numbers of sensor failures that I used to. Normal resistance 
readings vary a bit among brands, but if yours reads somewhere 
around 1000 ohms at room temperature, it's probably OK. 

Other 'F3' causes: 
*many sensors connect with a plastic harness plug that's located where 
the sensor leads exit the oven cavity. This plug, if installed too close 
behind the oven wall, can contact the hot wall and melt. I've seen these 
really charred 'crispy', and usually eliminate the plug when replacing 
a sensor, using small ceramic wire nuts instead. 
*Even a bit of corrosion on sensor harness plug connectors can cause 
this problem. Current flow through this circuit is very low, and it 
doesn't take much to disrupt it.

*F4 - Shorted sensor or wiring. I find very few sensors themselves 
shorted, but sometimes encounter an F4 caused by melted harness 
plugs as mentioned above.

*F5 - usually another internal controller circuit board failure, requiring 
its replacement (But indicates a door latch problem on newer ranges).

*F6 - Time-keeping circuitry problem - can be caused by fluctuation 
of the 60Hz power supply (Another rare one - can indicate a 'cancel' 
key failure on newer ranges).

*F7 - Stuck button or function key (bake, broil, clean, etc, on control - 
another one I don't remember ever seeing - I feel so deprived!)

*F8 - another internal problem affecting temperature control circuitry 
- yet another reason to price a new control!

*F9 - Door lock circuit on older ranges - often caused by pinched or 
melted door lock switch wires.

Well, that should get you started on the way back to a normal oven. 
Be sure you get prices on parts before ordering, especially the 
controllers themselves. They can be really pricey. Feel free to 
contact me if you need help researching one for your oven. 

2)  To thank you guys for your kindness and support, I'm excited 
to announce that I can write you a $25 check this year!  Consider it 
your Christmas Gift! 

(Note: This offer is only open to DRSNews subscribers)

I know you're waiting for the 'catch', and there is one, but it's a 
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To give you an idea what it's all about, the chapter titles are:

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  Appendix

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                                   ***

I had hoped to have room in this issue to tell you about some 
really neat time-saving software we've been using, but it'll 
have to wait for next time. I've been trying to keep these 
newsletters from getting so long that they become a burden 
to you. As those of you know who've been reading this rag for 
a while, I can get long-winded! (I see those heads nodding...)

                                   ***

Thanks again, Homeclinic'ers, for inviting me into your inbox. 
 
And as always, if you have any topics you?d like to see 
discussed here or covered in an online article, let me 
know and I?ll do my best to oblige. And don't forget those 
testimonials! Many thanks to those of you who've already 
sent yours in! I'm posting them just as fast as I can!
 
Merry Christmas! Wise men still seek Him!

Warmly,
 
Dave Harnish
Dave?s Repair Service
New Albany, PA
drs@xxxxxxxxxx
www.DavesRepair.com
(570) 363-2404

On December 25, we celebrate a unique Life that was 
detailed in writing far in advance: 

'But thou, Bethlehem Ephratah, [though] thou be little 
among the thousands of Judah, [yet] out of thee shall He 
come forth until Me [that is] to be ruler in Israel; whose 
goings forth have been from of old, from everlasting.' 
- Micah 5:2, written approx. 700 years before His birth, 
and only one of about 300 pre-written details!

Where to find it:

DRSNews back issues:
www.DavesRepair.com/DRSNbackissues/DRSNindex.htm

How-to Articles:
www.DavesRepair.com/DIYindex.htm

Current Parts Specials: 
www.DavesRepair.com/SaleParts/partsspecials.htm

Vintage Parts: 
www.DavesRepair.com/vintageparts.htm

Manuals of all kinds:
www.DavesRepair.com/pdfmanuals/manualsindex.htm

You're Invited to My Ebay Store! Come in and Browse!
www.stores.ebay.com/DavesRepairService

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