The DRSNews, May 2005 (Our 3rd Anniversary Issue!) Hi Homeclinic'ers! By Subscription Only Published by Dave?s Repair Service, All Rights Reserved You are currently subscribed with email address: ==> homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Unsubscribe instructions are at the end of this newsletter. Feel free to forward this newsletter to friends and invite them to sign up! Just send them to: www.DavesRepair.com *************************************** A Special Welcome to all our new subscribers, especially my fellow YMMSS members! Note: to help this newsletter wade through all the 'spam' filtering now in use and reach you, I recommend that you add my address to your email program's address book: drs@xxxxxxxxxx (In Outlook Express, just right - click on the subject line, then click 'add sender to address book') In this issue: 1) Easy Cure for Whirlpool/KM Washer Brake Lockup 2) Own a Business? Advertise Here - and Get Paid for It! 3) Next Month: Simple Tool to Test Your Dryer's Airflow 1) Here's how to cure the brake lockup problem with those top load washers we call 'direct drives', made under the Whirlpool, Kenmore, Kitchenaid, Roper and Estate brand names. I'm thrilled to say that I've found a much easier, faster cure than ever. Correcting this used to take me an hour and a quarter, but now runs around 15 minutes using this method! Woo-hoo! What I call 'spin brake lockup' is characterized by the washer's basket stopping too suddenly at the end of spin. This can be so violent that the entire machine can actually pivot out of place. Yikes! I used to see this happen on these washers only rarely, but for whatever reason it seems to be getting more common. The inertia of this sudden stop can 'strip' the washer's drive coupler and bring the machine to a halt. And I've seen a few cases that stripped the drive tabs off the basket drive block, and that's a pretty impressive chunk of aluminum. This appears to be caused by paint on the inside of the brake drum 'gumming' up and making the brake shoes grab. I used to pull the tub, transmission, and basket drive out and sand the drum and linings, which corrected the problem, at least for a while. But it was a time consuming - and expensive - job. But after testing the following shortcut on many of these washers over the last year or two, I'm happy to report that all that work is totally unnecessary! Btw, I doubt you'll see this tip anywhere else, so it's well worth the cost of your subscription (well, OK, your sub's free, but I wanted to make sure you were paying attention! <grin>) If your washer stops spinning violently like I'm describing, within a second or two, you can cure it yourself (if it's not repaired, it can also cause serious damage to suspension components). Pickup a small tube of high temperature silicone-based grease from your local auto parts store. 'Sil-Glyde' is one common brand that I've used for many purposes over the years. A very handy grease to use around rubber components that petroleum lubes would attack. This is sold as automotive brake caliper lube, and if you ask for a small amount of that, they'll know what you mean. Buy the smallest amount available - you only need a tiny 'dab' on the end of a small screwdriver. Pull the washer's cabinet off (see note at the end of this article) and you'll see the chrome clutch drum, right above the transmission. Just above that is another, larger drum, and this one's the brake drum. On most, you'll see a foam 'rubber band' noise dampener around it. Put a 1/4 inch 'dab' of silicone grease on the end of a small screwdriver (I use the pen-sized one carried in my shirt pocket), and look up into this brake drum. You'll want to insert the screwdriver between the brake coil spring and the inside of the drum. Apply the grease to the inside of the brake drum (the drum can be rotated by hand to bring this spring around). Be sure you're putting this into the UPPER drum (brake), and NOT the clutch drum, which is below it, and chrome in color. I've included a picture of the two drums in the online version of this article. You'll find that here: http://www.DavesRepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYddbrakelube.htm It would be very hard to put grease on the clutch linings inside the lower clutch drum, but I mention the possibility just in case there's a 'Tim Allen' type (like my big brother) out there who might take the 'more is better' approach <grin>. That's it! Solves the brake lockup problem, and it doesn't come back! No pulling the motor, gearcase, pump - or any of that fun stuff like I used to! As my 15 year old daughter would say, 'sweet!'. Note: In the interest of keeping this issue as short as possible, I didn't include directions for removing the washer cabinet. You'll find those in the instructions for replacing the drive coupler in these washers, at: http://www.DavesRepair.com/DIYhelp/DIY285753.htm ; 2) This newsletter goes out to a lot of my online marketing friends, so whenever I find something that's been working for me, I like to share it with you guys. And to say the following has been 'working' for me is an understatement! I'll make you this promise 'up front': as long as the company I'm about to introduce stays in business (now 3 years old and growing fast!), you can easily replace or exceed your current income in under two years - with NO recruiting, and NO selling! With a unique concept and business plan that you won't see anywhere else on the Internet or off, I've been amazed by the responsiveness of this group of folks to my ads. My income has been growing steadily, too, which is very, very nice to watch <grin>. And other than posting an ad or two every week for one of my businesses and for this newsletter, I've done NO selling and NO recruiting! (30 new signups to the DRSNews from one ad placed last weekend! Welcome, guys!) (By the way, this isn't just for business owners. 'Will work just as well for you whether you choose to use the ad space or not!) It's one of those 'too good to be true' business plans, and I started with the company back in November as a bit of a skeptic. Which is why I've waited 6 months to share it with you. I can tell you now, that after spending 20-30 minutes per week(!) working with this and getting phenomenal results, that you definitely want to look at this one! Every member gets paid - and did I mention there's no selling involved?! I love the Internet! http://ThisPaysBIG.com/DaveHarnish/ 3) Next Month: I've found a simple little tool to test your Whirlpool or Kenmore dryer (also Kitchenaid, Roper, and Estate) vent for proper airflow. Now instead of going outside and checking for a 'good, strong airflow' (whatever THAT means!), there's a simple, inexpensive little device that'll tell you if your vent's OK or if you should run a guinea pig (um, I mean brush - it's a long story!) through it and clean it out. But I've been trying to keep these newsletters shorter, so I'll let it go at that for now. *** I do want to thank you again, Homeclinic'ers, for inviting me into your inbox. As always, if you have any topics you?d like to see discussed here or covered in an online article, let me know and I?ll do my best to oblige. And don't forget those testimonials! Many thanks if you've already sent yours in! I'm posting them just as fast as I can! God bless, Dave Harnish Dave?s Repair Service New Albany, PA drs@xxxxxxxxxx www.DavesRepair.com (570) 363-2404 ''Worry is the darkroom in which negatives can develop.'' Phil 4:6 *** The DRSNews is sent by ?opt-in? request only.Your name and email address are held in strictest confidentiality and are never shared with anyone. To unsubscribe anytime, (no hard feelings!), click: mailto:drs@xxxxxxxxxx?subject=unsubscribeDRSN Or just send me a blank email: drs@xxxxxxxxxx with ?unsubscribe DRSN? in the ?Subject? line (But hey, tell me why, and I'll try to make it right, OK?) ******************************************************************** To unsubscribe send 'unsubscribe homeclinic'in subject line to Ecartis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx View the Archives at //freelists.org/archives/homeclinic ********************************************************************