[homeclinic] Homeclinic'ers, Here's Your DRSNews!

From: Dave Harnish <drs@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 23:33:52 -0600
The DRSNews, May 2005  
(Our 3rd Anniversary Issue!)
Hi Homeclinic'ers!

By Subscription Only
Published by Dave?s Repair Service, All Rights Reserved 
You are currently subscribed with email address:
==> homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Unsubscribe instructions are at the end of this newsletter.

Feel free to forward this newsletter to friends and invite 
them to sign up! Just send them to: www.DavesRepair.com
***************************************
A Special Welcome to all our new subscribers, especially 
my fellow YMMSS members!

Note: to help this newsletter wade through all the 'spam' 
filtering now in use and reach you, I recommend that you 
add my address to your email program's address book: 
drs@xxxxxxxxxx (In Outlook Express, just right - click 
on the subject line, then click 'add sender to address 
book')

In this issue:

1) Easy Cure for Whirlpool/KM Washer Brake Lockup
2) Own a Business? Advertise Here - and Get Paid for It!  
3) Next Month: Simple Tool to Test Your Dryer's Airflow

1)  Here's how to cure the brake lockup problem with 
those top load washers we call 'direct drives', made under 
the Whirlpool, Kenmore, Kitchenaid, Roper and Estate 
brand names. I'm thrilled to say that I've found a much 
easier, faster cure than ever. Correcting this used to take 
me an hour and a quarter, but now runs around 15 minutes
using this method! Woo-hoo!

What I call 'spin brake lockup' is characterized by the 
washer's basket stopping too suddenly at the end of spin. 
This can be so violent that the entire machine can actually 
pivot out of place. Yikes!

I used to see this happen on these washers only rarely, but 
for whatever reason it seems to be getting more common.
The inertia of this sudden stop can 'strip' the washer's drive 
coupler and bring the machine to a halt. And I've seen a few 
cases that stripped the drive tabs off the basket drive block, 
and that's a pretty impressive chunk of aluminum.

This appears to be caused by paint on the inside of the brake 
drum 'gumming' up and making the brake shoes grab. I used 
to pull the tub, transmission, and basket drive out and sand 
the drum and linings, which corrected the problem, at least for 
a while. But it was a time consuming - and expensive - job.

But after testing the following shortcut on many of these 
washers over the last year or two, I'm happy to report that 
all that work is totally unnecessary! Btw, I doubt you'll see 
this tip anywhere else, so it's well worth the cost of your 
subscription (well, OK, your sub's free, but I wanted to make 
sure you were paying attention! <grin>)

If your washer stops spinning violently like I'm describing, 
within a second or two, you can cure it yourself (if it's not 
repaired, it can also cause serious damage to suspension 
components).

Pickup a small tube of high temperature silicone-based 
grease from your local auto parts store. 'Sil-Glyde' is one 
common brand that I've used for many purposes over the 
years. A very handy grease to use around rubber components 
that petroleum lubes would attack. This is sold as automotive 
brake caliper lube, and if you ask for a small amount of 
that, they'll know what you mean. Buy the smallest amount 
available - you only need a tiny 'dab' on the end of a small 
screwdriver.

Pull the washer's cabinet off (see note at the end of this 
article) and you'll see the chrome clutch drum, right above 
the transmission. Just above that is another, larger drum, 
and this one's the brake drum. On most, you'll see a  foam 
'rubber band' noise dampener around it.

Put a 1/4 inch 'dab' of silicone grease on the end of a small 
screwdriver (I use the pen-sized one carried in my shirt 
pocket), and look up into this brake drum.

You'll want to insert the screwdriver between the brake coil 
spring and the inside of the drum.  Apply the grease to the 
inside of the brake drum (the drum can be rotated by hand 
to bring this spring around).

Be sure you're putting this into the UPPER drum (brake), 
and NOT the clutch drum, which is below it, and chrome in 
color. I've included a picture of the two drums in the online 
version of this article. You'll find that here: 
http://www.DavesRepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYddbrakelube.htm

It would be very hard to put grease on the clutch linings 
inside the lower clutch drum, but I mention the possibility 
just in case there's a 'Tim Allen' type (like my big brother) 
out there who might take the 'more is better' approach <grin>. 

That's it! Solves the brake lockup problem, and it doesn't 
come back! No pulling the motor, gearcase, pump - or any 
of that fun stuff like I used to! As my 15 year old daughter 
would say, 'sweet!'.

Note: In the interest of keeping this issue as short as 
possible, I didn't include directions for removing the washer 
cabinet. You'll find those in the instructions for replacing 
the drive coupler in these washers, at: 
http://www.DavesRepair.com/DIYhelp/DIY285753.htm ;

2) This newsletter goes out to a lot of my online marketing 
friends, so whenever I find something that's been working 
for me, I like to share it with you guys. And to say the 
following has been 'working' for me is an understatement! 

I'll make you this promise 'up front': as long as the company 
I'm about to introduce stays in business (now 3 years old and 
growing fast!), you can easily replace or exceed your current 
income in under two years - with NO recruiting, and NO selling! 

With a unique concept and business plan that you won't 
see anywhere else on the Internet or off, I've been amazed 
by the responsiveness of this group of folks to my ads. My 
income has been growing steadily, too, which is very, very 
nice to watch <grin>. 

And other than posting an ad or two every week for one of 
my businesses and for this newsletter, I've done NO selling 
and NO recruiting! (30 new signups to the DRSNews from 
one ad placed last weekend! Welcome, guys!)

(By the way, this isn't just for business owners. 'Will work 
just as well for you whether you choose to use the ad space 
or not!)

It's one of those 'too good to be true' business plans, and 
I started with the company back in November as a bit of a 
skeptic. Which is why I've waited 6 months to share it with 
you. 

I can tell you now, that after spending 20-30 minutes per 
week(!) working with this and getting phenomenal results, 
that you definitely want to look at this one! Every member 
gets paid - and did I mention there's no selling involved?! 
I love the Internet! http://ThisPaysBIG.com/DaveHarnish/

3)  Next Month: I've found a simple little tool to test your 
Whirlpool or Kenmore dryer (also Kitchenaid, Roper, and 
Estate) vent for proper airflow. Now instead of going outside 
and checking for a 'good, strong airflow' (whatever THAT 
means!), there's a simple, inexpensive little device that'll 
tell you if your vent's OK or if you should run a guinea pig 
(um, I mean brush - it's a long story!) through it and clean 
it out. 

But I've been trying to keep these newsletters shorter, so 
I'll let it go at that for now. 

***

I do want to thank you again, Homeclinic'ers, for inviting me 
into your inbox. 

As always, if you have any topics you?d like to see discussed 
here or covered in an online article, let me know and I?ll do 
my best to oblige. And don't forget those testimonials! Many 
thanks if you've already sent yours in! I'm posting them just 
as fast as I can! 

God bless,
 
Dave Harnish
Dave?s Repair Service
New Albany, PA
drs@xxxxxxxxxx
www.DavesRepair.com
(570) 363-2404

''Worry is the darkroom in which negatives can develop.''
Phil 4:6

***

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[homeclinic] Homeclinic'ers, Here's Your DRSNews!

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