FreeLists / homeclinic / [homeclinic] Homeclinic'ers, Here's Your DRSNews!

[Dave Harnish <drs@xxxxxxxxxx>]

The DRSNews

February 2005 
(Happy Valentine's Day!)

Hi Homeclinic'ers!

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In this issue:
 
1) Washer Installation Tips
2) 2 X 6 Wood Blocks and Dryer Vents 

1) I've had some questions on this subject lately, so I thought 
it might be a good idea to mention a few washer installation tips 

Leveling
Important, but not nearly as important as 'solidity' to the floor. 
A concrete floor is best wherever possible, but if your wooden 
floor's on the 'soft' side, a 3/4'' piece of plywood will help. Fasten 
it down 'hard' with sheetrock screws that are long enough to reach 
all the way through to the joists below where possible. If your 
washer has locknuts on its feet, be sure to tighten them to keep 
the feet from vibrating loose and the machine from 'wandering'.

Water Pressure
20-120 psi is required. Water pressure actually opens and closes 
the fill valves, and too little can cause constant fill and overflow; 
too much can burst internal valve diaphragms and also cause 
overflow.

Drain Requirements
Most machines require a 36" min height from floor, with a  5-6' 
maximum height recommended. Drain should have some sort of 
air gap (a normal standpipe provides this) to prevent siphoning 
(if drain is lower than top of console on top loaders, water will 
probably drain out during wash or rinse). Ideally, the standpipe 
should be at least 24'' long above the trap to prevent backup 
and 'splashback' out the top, onto the floor 

Fill hoses
Always use screens, either those already in the fill valve, or added 
at the faucets if the back of your washer's hard to reach. Resist 
the urge to remove the cold screen if it clogs frequently - removing 
it will 'get' you, and the flooding isn't pretty when it happens!

Fittings are same size as garden hose 

Always turn off supply faucet(s) when the washer's not in use. 
Very few people actually DO this - only those of us who have seen 
what happens when a fill hose bursts with no one at home (that's 
when they always seem to burst - how do they know?!)

'Snug' fill hoses with pliers, not just by hand, and always use new 
hose washers whenever hoses are disconnected - Trust me on this!  
It's cheap insurance against leaks. 

Always use a dab of silicone-based grease on metal faucet threads 
before connecting fill hoses - this will keep them from rusting and 
save you a lot of hassle later, when you need to remove the hoses.  
(Skip this step, and you may have to hacksaw them off later!)

Transporting a Previously Installed Washer
Restrain tub movement; jam blanket between cab & tub if possible, 
or reinstall original shipping hardware (rarely available).

Especially important with front loaders: be sure to save that original 
shipping hardware, just in case.  These machines are easily damaged 
if transported without the shipping hardware installed (I'm tempted 
to say 'don't worry about this - most FL's don't last long enough today 
to have a second owner - but I'll leave that for another DRSNews 
<grin>).

Transport upright only, to avoid risk of oil leakage, suspension and 
cabinet damage, etc. 

2)  Here's a little trick I've been using for many years, whenever I 
see a dryer that tends to 'migrate' back toward the wall and sneakily 
smash its vent. After replacing the damaged duct, I grab a piece of 
2 X 6 lumber and drop it behind the dryer. 

I cut and carry several different lengths in the van, most commonly 
5, 6, and 7 inch pieces, and this has been a quick 'fix' for this problem. 

Sometimes the washer (out of sympathy?) has moved back too, so 
you may want to inch it forward to match the dryer, just to make 
everything look nifty.

I see this quite often, especially on more slippery floors, of course. 
And it's sneaky - the dryer may move back a slight amount at a time, 
and you won't realize it's even happening - until the clothes start 
coming out wet, or the heat shuts down entirely when the thermal 
fuse blows. Just another little detail you'll want to watch out for.

                                                      ***
Thanks again, Homeclinic'ers, for inviting me into your inbox. 
 
As always, if you have any topics you?d like to see discussed here or 
covered in an online article, let me know and I?ll do my best to oblige. 
And don't forget those testimonials! Many thanks to those of you 
who've already sent yours in! I'm posting them just as fast as I can! 

Your Friend,
Dave Harnish

Dave?s Repair Service
New Albany, PA
drs@xxxxxxxxxx
www.DavesRepair.com
(570) 363-2404

Guys, remember this, especially around Valentine's Day: 
"A woman has the last word in any argument. Anything a 
man says after that is the beginning of a new argument."

Proverbs 31:10

Where to find it:
The Testimonials Page: 
www.DavesRepair.com/testimonials1.htm
DRSNews back issues:
www.DavesRepair.com/DRSNbackissues/DRSNindex.htm
How-to Articles:
www.DavesRepair.com/DIYindex.htm
Current Parts Specials: 
www.DavesRepair.com/SaleParts/partsspecials.htm
Vintage Parts: 
www.DavesRepair.com/vintageparts.htm
Manuals of all kinds:
www.DavesRepair.com/pdfmanuals/manualsindex.htm
You're Invited to My Ebay Store! Come in and Browse!
www.stores.ebay.com/DavesRepairService

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